Tian Shan Trek Log

29th July 2005:

We were collected by a Russian ex army troop carrier (pic) that had 6 wheel drive. It was a bouncy ride but made a change from walking. We were soon out of the mountains and stopped of a short break in a rather scrappy town before we trundled off again to the shores of lake Issy Kull for lunch.

Most of the group went for a swim (pic) but I opted for a paddle. The water of this lake is said to be kept warm by some form of thermal activity but it still felt chilly to me. It was very pleasant sitting on the beach eating lunch.

We were soon off again for an excruciating 5 hour drive to Kar Kara camp. I had a headache and there was not enough leg room for me and cramp set in. After one of the toilet stops I was allowed to sit in the drivers cab. it was bumpier, noisier and fumeier but at least there was more legroom. At this point the engine decided it had had enough and started making heavy going of the uphill bits. It would slow down to a brisk walk and then splutter to a stop. The driver would get out and suck petrol through and we would be off to the next hill. Soon it became till the next slight incline. Eventually the driver got out his tools and did something to the petrol pump and we completed the journey very slowly.

The camp was in a pleasant green valley with luxurious tents and a shower and I was soon feeling better. After dinner we went to the bar where some of the group made good use of the Kareoke machine. (You know who your are). Despite this it was a good night. It was pleasant to relax with a few beers and mull over the trek we had done and consider what was to come.

30th July 2005:

In the morning we went for a horse ride along the river to a nomad camp. The horses were reluctant to move but it was a pleasant ride where my horse would occasionally break into a trot. We were led at first by an 8 year old boy.

At the end of the ride there was another yurt waiting to supply us with the usual food; bread, tea, cream and Komis the fermented mares milk (pic). We went back to Kar kara in another troop carrier but this one went uphill.

The afternoon was spent preparing for the next few days on the Inylchek Glacier. I recharged all my batteries and sorted my digital photos, showered, read and relaxed.

31st July 2005:

We had an early morning helicopter flight to the Inylchek Base Camp. it was the most spectacular flight I have ever been on. It was an old, noisy Russian aircraft, with bench seats along the sides and all our luggage stored down the middle. After take off we were able to open the windows and the views were terrific. I spent much of the flight with my video camera stuck out the window. After about 40 mins we crossed the final ridge and plunged into the amphitheatre of mountains surrounding the camp (pics). Pobedy and Khan Tengri stood out above the rest.

It was a smooth landing but they did not stop the motor and we had to unload our stuff with the blades whizzing above our heads. You would have had to jump very high to hit them but the inclination was to stoop. The weather could not have been better, and even at 4000m it was pleasantly warm. We were allocated our tents, which were spacious frame ones with thick sponge mattresses, then we went for an acclimatization walk.

This walk took us north of the camp and crossed some lumpy glacial rubble and a few crevasses. it was really pleasant walking with views all around. We headed back to the camp for lunch which was provided in the large mess tent that server several groups who were using the camp. Most of them were real climbers. The afternoon we had free so I took plenty of photos and video and just got used to the altitude, although I did have a bit of a headache at this stage. The whole area resembles Concordia with the convergence of glaciers and magnificent peaks all around.

1st August 2005:

A perfect way to spend a birthday. The day was fine and sunny again. Sadly Leslie was having blood pressure problems so she and Judy had to go back down with the mornings helicopter.

The rest of us went on a walk towards the Khan Tengri base camp. Unfortunately the group was moving rather slowly and with the late start we were unable to get to the base camp. However it was a magnificent day with warm sunshine and magnificent views of Khan Tengri. We sat in the sun and ate lunch and I enjoyed a pipe.

As the afternoon progressed and we headed back to our camp (pic) the cloud rolled in and soon the major peaks were shrouded. Somehow it was revealed at dinner that it was my birthday and a cake was brought out and the song was sung. Rosemary produced a bottle of vodka that went down very well. There was a bit of light rain as we went back to our tents.

2nd August 2005:

I awoke to an overcast sky with the peaks disappearing into grey murk. There were only five of us for the walk towards the Pobedy base camp. It was an interesting walk as everything looked so different. It was a bit of a slog up the side of the glacier then we walked a bit of the way across on the ice (pic). We did not get very far as we had to be back by 1400 for lunch and the weather was getting worse with a little light rain.

After lunch there was that usual vacuum to fill especially in the rain. At least there was a nice mess tent to while away the hours till dinner. We were concerned about the weather as no helicopter would land in this and we were due to fly out tomorrow. This was the end of the trekking. I always reach this stage with mixed feelings. It will be good to have a bit of comfort, but I miss the walking and the whole trekking experience.

3rd August 2005:

The morning dawned with thick mist around the camp. I awoke to the sound of voices saying it was too thick for the flight out, however when I got out of my tent it was just mist that was dissolving by the minute as the sun warmed the air.

After breakfast we waited for the helicopter to appear. It was soon on the glacier stirring up dust, snow and rubbish. Again the engine did not stop as we boarded. It was another magnificent flight (pic) but sadly we were soon back at Kar Kara camp where Judy and Leslie had staged a bit of a welcome.

4th August 2005:

I awoke to my tent (pic) being unzipped by John who cheerily asked how I was feeling and mentioned that he had just thrown up in the bushes. I groaned and said I did not feel too bad. That was before I had stood up. I slowly and carefully got up and packed up my stuff ready for a day on a bus back to Almaty.

I bravely wobbled across to the mess hall and sat down, not sure that breakfast was a good idea. A bowl of thick stoggy porridge was crashed down in front of me. I looked at it and decided looking at it was not a good idea and eating it was even worse so I moved it away across the table and tried to ignore everyone else eating. One of the staff saw the empty space in front of me and, crash, there was another bowl of vomit inducing stodge. I tried to look away but it was no good, I could feel the bile rising and quickly made for the door and over to the bushes where my stomach had its way.

The bus ride back to Almaty was a bit of an ordeal but everyone seemed sympathetic, which I found odd as it was self inflicted. I was certainly old enough to know what happens when you drink too much. By lunch time John was bouncing around as if nothing had happened but I was still a little under the weather. As the afternoon wore on my hangover wore off and I began to think what a great night last night had been.

We were back in Almaty at about 1630, and soon settled back in the hotel as if we had never been away. Off to Tashkent tomorrow.

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