Tian Shan Trek Log

21st July 2005:

First day of the trek. We drove up to the track head through the Khazak heat.

It was a hot steep climb of about 1000m. The oldest fellow on the trek, Alek (75) was a bit sick but I don't think I will even be attempting this sort of thing at his age. most of the walk was through pine forest with lots of stinging nettles.

We camped above the tree line (pic) where the valley changes from the v of a river to the u of a glacier. We were just passed the old terminal moraine. There does not seem to be a ready supply of hot water so we washed in the river.

22nd July 2005:

Today it was an easier amble up the valley of about 4 hours. There was a little light rain on the way and the day was cloudy. Our first river crossing of the trek was easily done without having to de-boot. We arrived at the camp site at about 1400.

It was a lovely spot and we were treated to sunshine for a short while. John, Malcolm and Robert set off up a nearby hill. Being older and more decrepid than them I waited a bit then followed on at my own pace and stopped well before they did. There was a good view down on the camp (pic) and down the valley but there were banks of cloud rolling up towards us and at the sound of thunder I decided it would be best to make for camp. I just made it to my tent as the rain, hail and thunder started in earnest.

23rd July 2005:

Today was a rest day. This really means a rest for the staff and donkeys and a day of extreme effort for all us trekkers. At least camping in the same place for two nights saves all the packing and unpacking and a more leisurely start can be made to the day.

For our rest we went up Dyrgyz peak which is about 3800m. Things started easy enough with an amble up to the Almaty pass on the border with Kyrgyzstan. The weather started fine but cloud started to build up. At the pass we rested and took photos of the cairn left by Tamerlame when he was on his was to slaughter the people of central Asia. We then turned North and very soon we were climbing steeply up large boulder scree. I found it hard going but eventually arrived on the shoulder where things levelled off a bit before the final climb to the summit. At this point I was alone. I always like the feeling of solitude in these wild areas when no one else is around although there were more of our group pushing up behind me and John, Robert and Malcolm were already at the top. I struggled up to them stopping on the way to do some video of the rain sweeping across from Kyrgyzstan.

After lunch we headed back to camp. I needed to make a deposit so went on ahead out of modesty. When it comes to these things I really am quite modest so I had to get quite a long way ahead before I felt secure enough to get on with it. I could see rain sweeping in and hurried on down. There was a bit of rain on the way but it did not really start until I was safely enshrouded in my tent, then it really let rip with thunder and hail again.

24th July 2005:

We moved on today across the Almaty Pass into Kyrgyzstan. This involved a repeat of the first bit of yesterdays walk as far as the pass where we rested and took more photos. It was then down the other side and round the left hand shore of the lake just below the pass. It was odd crossing an international border with no border post. We could jump back and forth between Khazakstan and Kyrgyzstan as many times as we liked even if our visa was single entry.

It was a long pleasant walk down beside the Almaty River (pic). It was just a fast flowing creek but got bigger the lower we got. Stopped in the sun for a pleasant lunch then continued on down. Towards the bottom the gorge got steeper sided and the narrow path contoured high above the river. Eventually the landscape opened up and we emerged into the Chon Kemmin valley.

25th July 2005:

Today was a stroll straight up the Chon Kemmin River. It cuts the Northern Tian Shan Range laterally and is dead straight. This was to be the day of river crossings as many side streams crossed our path. The weather was fine and sunny, a perfect day for a walk.

The first crossing slowed us down considerably as most of the group de-booted. I had new Gore Tex boots and wanted to see how they would go in the water so just waded across. I do not like de-booting as my bare feet don't seem to cope with hard rocks. It also meant I was across first and could video the staggerings of my fellow walkers.

Afterwards we continued up the valley in the sun. Like in the morning, we had several side creeks to cross but they were all easy until we came to the last one. Sasha, out guide had warned us that the last one would be harder and as I neared it the sound told me he was right. I wandered up and down looking for a crossing whilst the rest of the group reached this torrent of silty glacial run off.

The rest of the days walk was a nice stroll along the grasslands to the camp. The weather started to look ominous as we neared the camp, then a cold wind got up followed by another thunderstorm. I hurried on and got to my tent just before the downpour.

The rain eased for dinner and we gathered in the mess tent as usual. Not everyone brought their waterproofs and lights with them. I thought this a little optimistic. During the meal the rain returned and it hosed down and did not stop. We waited for a break but none came and eventually everyone decided to make for their tents. As I had my umbrella and a light I ferried those without back to their tents. This was not easy as the rain made it difficult to see and it was pitch black. After trying to deliver people to the wrong tents a few times I was ready for mine but I needed the toilet tent first. I wandered around in the rain and fog but it had disappeared. Eventually I gave up hoping I could hold on till morning. There is something very comforting about lying in a tent in the pouring rain but the edge is taken off when your bowel is screaming for release.

26th July 2005:

It was with some relief that I woke up to silence. Several times during the night I had woken to the sound of rain pounding the tent, but my bowl was holding on valiantly. It was a nice sunny if rather soggy morning.

Today we had to cross to the foot of the Aksu Glacier, which was up a valley the other side of the River. Instead of crossing it we went round it. This involved a walk up stream to a large bank of rubble out of which was issuing the fully fledged Chon Kemmin River. We climbed round this bank and on to the lake (pic) at the head of the valley. It was a brilliant blue with mountains all around. A good spot for a rest and photos.

We then headed back down the valley on the other side of the river without having crossed it. When we were about opposite our camp we turned south up the valley that is headed by the Aksu Glacier. The weather was mostly fine with some light shower.

After lunch it was steeper and a bit of a slog up to the camp site a few hundred meters away from the snout of the glacier. It was a rocky camp for a change and was warm until the sun set. There was an arm wrestling competition in the evening between the staff, John, who is the toughest of us had a go (pic) but the Khazak style of lifting your elbow and putting your whole body weight behind it, caught him by surprise.

27th July 2005:

It was a day of snow flurries and thunderstorms as we left the camp and headed straight for the snout of the Aksu Glacier. Stepping onto the ice was easier than I thought as there seemed to be a fair bit of grip as we crunched our way up. It was quite steep at first and there were more flurries of light snow. I found it exciting to actually be walking on a glacier that was not covered in rubble.

Soon we were at the top of the glacier (pic) in a wide snow field surrounded by a circue of mountains (pic). Ominous clouds were moving in from the west and distant thunder was rumbling round the hills. It was truly an awe inspiring place but we had to move on as the pass was still a long climb ahead.

We crossed to the east and left the ice and the climb started. It was a rubbly scree slope with a bit of a path winding up to the pass. It was reasonable going for a human but the horses had serious difficulties. Their hooves would sink into the shingle and they would slide back down. One horse fell over and decided it had had enough and was going to have a little lie down. The only way the horsemen could get it up and going again was to unload it. All this took ages and we were left waiting and getting colder as more showers and storms swept across.

Eventually we were off again and it was a steady plod to the top. Just over the top was a small icy patch that we had to slide down to much mirth (pic). At this point John, Malcolm and Robert went back to pick up the stuff dropped by the reluctant horse. I felt I should have gone but did not have the strength to have carried much more so I continued on down with the group. I found their pace to be too slow for me so went ahead. I always enjoy a bit of time on my own on these treks and I enjoyed that descent into the grassy realms below the rock and ice we had been crossing.

The showers became less frequent as I lost altitude and by the time I reached the river it was quite pleasant so I sat on a rock, lit up my pipe and waited for the group as I did not know which way to go. We continued together for a while then I went on again and soon arrived at the camp which was on a pleasant grassy river flat.

It had been a good, tough, interesting and varied days walk. We were all ready for dinner and the usual night time carry on in the mess tent.

28th July 2005:

This was to be the last days walking on this section of the trek. We were ferried across the river, the Chon Aksu, on horseback. This was not really necessary as although it was wide it was shallow and rocky, however it was a pleasant experience. Once across it was easy walking down the southern banks of the river.

The walk took us passed several nomad encampments (pic) and as we continued we were assailed by showers and cold wind. It was down to 10 deg. Our schedule tended to be a bit rigid so when it was lunch time we stopped and had lunch. The fact that it was pouring with rain and there was no shelter around made no difference. Soon after lunch the sun came out and it was pleasant walking.

This was not to last and as we neared the camp the rain came again and it hosed down. Thankfully the camp was fully set up as usual and we dived for our tents. The rain soon stopped and people emerged to find that there was no toilet tent. The shovel for digging the hole had broken. Luckily this was our last night. People headed for the forest.

This being our last night with most of the staff there was the official goodbye ceremony. It seems that singing songs at each other was the traditional way. They sang mournful songs of lost love and we serenaded them with "What shall we do with the drunken sailor" (pic) and a moving rendition of Ilkley Moor by Barry and Rosemary. Tips were given, speeches were made and drink was drunk before we retired for our last night in the Northern Tian Shan mountains.

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