Stage 1: Over the Milke Danda

From Tumlingtar to Dhoban

Click the photos for a bigger view. Most of these pictures are stills from the video but in a few cases they are repeats of those in the slide shows.

10th October 1999:

We arrived in Kathmandu to very warm sunny weather. It was the usual chaos through the airport. We felt like seasoned Kathmandoers having been here the year before and we were soon on the bus to the Raddison Hotel.

At 2pm we met the rest of the group, all 12 of them, and had our trek briefing. We went out for dinner that night and wandered back through the mayhem of Thamil, doing a bit of shopping along the way. It is always an interesting experience meeting your fellow trekkers and learning their names, especially with a group this size, is a daunting task.

11th October 1999:

We flew to Tumlingtar (photo) after the usual tedious delays. It all seemed a bit de-javue but there were no views this time as there was too much cloud and haze.

Unlike last time we were not to camp so close to the airstrip. It was about an hour’s walk to the camp site and it was good to be doing a bit of walking except for the fact that it hosed down just before we got there, and it poured down for the rest of the night. It was a nice grassy camp above the river and it was very hot and humid.

12th October 1999:

We were climbing all day but it was not too steep but it was very hot and humid. I think I sweated more than I ever have in my life but at least it didn’t rain. Several times I wondered what I was doing here again. I don’t take to the heat very well.

We camped at a village called Wana where the mill made a constant pop pop pop noise. It was a pleasant spot but very warm and humid, even at night. I had my usual beginning of trek headache, due mainly to coffee withdrawal. I prefer to suffer a bit at first and get it over with.

13th October 1999:

The days walk started with a steep descent to the Shawa Khola. The path was very indistinct and washed away in places as it dropped through paddy fields. The walking was a bit tricky as we had to balance along the ridges between the flooded furrows. The bridge across the river was narrow and swung about but was quite secure, however it was a one at a time bridge.

It was a steep climb up the other side through wet slippery mud. It was still hot and humid and it was a welcome lunch spot under good shade trees. It was still up after lunch through the village of Sita Pokari (photo) to a school that seemed to be in the middle of nowhere where we made camp. It was high on the ridge with fine views and a few leaches. Sue and I went for a bit of a walk and met the teacher from the school and had a bit of a chat.

14th October 1999:

An easier day today, traversing up the valley. The sun was hot but the air seemed fresher. We are around the 2000m mark and go up to 3000m tomorrow. It is a good camp site in a clearing in the rain forest. There are a few leeches about and one got me on the hip but they succumbed to Rid. I had a bit of a headache but it seemed to be more caffeine withdrawal than altitude. It was quite a tough day and I was glad to arrive at the camp.

15th October 1999:

We first headed down into a nettle infested gully then across a creek. Then it was up for the rest of the day. We emerged from the jungle onto a steep clear ridge. We had lunch at a glorious spot looking out over the valley to last nights camp.

The afternoon was all up to the top of the Milke Danda at about 3100m. It was a terrific camp site but cloud came in soon after our arrival giving the whole place a surreal feel. At one point the cloud cleared giving us our first glimpse of the big peaks. We could see Kangchenjunga and Janu. They looked a long way off. I had a headache in the evening so did not join in the porters game of volleyball. At least that was my excuse. Peter did join in. I could only watch in admiration.

16th October 1999:

The day started with an easy walk along the top of the Milke Danda in the sun. We then plummeted of the ridge down a very steep, rocky trail where Peter twisted an ankle. The track was easier after this and went passed a meat market that did not look appetizing, with chooks pecking around the meat that was just lying on the ground in the sun.

After leaving the market at Tamron we left the main track and went down to the river across several washouts and crossed a few creeks. We arrived at Sangu (photo) for lunch which was disturbed by a short shower.

A we were getting lower it was getting warmer again and this made the afternoons walk to Durgi Sangu a bit of a slog. It was good to get to our camp by the football field.

17th October 1999:

There were showers and storms in the night and the dining tent was left up for breakfast. Whilst we ate, the porters started their day with a game of football. It was an easy half days stroll down to Dhoban but the track was wet and slippery and quite steep in places.

The weather was fine as we crossed the bridge into the village of Dhoban. To the right was the village and to the left was our camp. As it was festival time the town was buzzing with kids (photo) everywhere. After a quick look round we went to the camp for lunch and to do our washing, then back to the town again to find the pub.

That evening a goat was killed and we had a nice goat curry although it was a bit tough. It was a pleasant night and everyone sat around on the grassy banks of the Tamur River.

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