Everest K2 Kangchenjunga and other Peaks

Kanangra to Katoomba - a two day walk. Back to walk Page
It was now early the following autumn. The time was about 10 pm, and we were all back in that cave in Kanangra Walls. It was a clear night with a bright moon and the walk from the car park across the head of Kanangra Deep to the cave had been stunning. Cloudmaker in the moonlight is a sight not to be missed!
We were the same four. That last thirty miles had been eating at Brian and myself for the last seven months, now we were going to get back at it and do it in two days (hopefully).
Ted and Mike were only going a short distance with us then back to the car. We had a brew and a natter then settled down for the night. It was clear and cool, unlike the last time we were here, and we were fresh and ready for a hard walk the next day. I set the alarm clock for 4 am and pursued a somewhat elusive sleep on the hard rocky floor of the cave.
When the alarm rang I couldn't reach it, so it rang itself back to sleep, but it had roused us all from our slumber. It was still as dark as when we had settled down for the night but now was cooler. We all fumbled around in the dark cursing the time and each other till we had a fire roaring away and two billies coming to the boil. One was for our porridge, the other for that bush ambrosia; tea. As usual at this time of day we all lapsed into a kind of lethargy as we sipped our tea, except Ted who was sipping his cordial. The next thing we noticed was dawn and the contents of our packs still strewn across the cave floor. Brian and I wanted to be walking at first light in order to see sunrise from Kanangra Tops, and to give us time to get some of the way up Yellow Pup Ridge on the far side of the Cox River before nightfall. We were being wildly optimistic.
Sunrise was at about 6.15 am. It was now about 5.45 am and a mad scramble ensued. Ted and Mike had to go back to their car first to dump their sleeping gear, so they were away first. Within a few minutes Brian and I were off, feeling really fit and almost running up the incline to Seymour Top. The track here was well defined with steps cut into the rock in places. In about five minutes we were on top gazing down into the misty depths of Kanangra Deep, impatiently waiting for the other two so we could proceed. We could see across Murdering Gully to the car park but there was no sign of them, so I shouted that we would go on at a sedate pace and they could catch up. My echo was loud and clear so we assumed they heard, and we set off on what was to be an extremely tiring but fulfilling day.
The stroll across the tops was delightful. The contrast in the surrounding deeps gradually increased as the sun rose above Cloudmaker and we could see the Kowmung Gorge and the Mountains beyond, through which we had plodded many months ago. We were now looking down on the Gingra Range and we remembered looking up on those blue heights from the Bulga on our way down to the Kowmung.
We were so rapt in all this that we missed the turn in the path to Brennan Top. This meant struggling through the wet prickly scrub to find it again. The first thing we saw was Mike and Ted charging along the top of the ridge, obviously on the path, so we clawed our way up to them. Both of us now had our shoes soaked through, (we were trying running shoes instead of boots for the first time) and our legs scratched, but not badly. After the expected, sarcastic comments from our companions we followed the path which was now becoming indistinct (as do all paths in the mountains), to the north east wall of Brennan Top.
We had only come one and a half miles and still felt good, but time was passing and the sun was now shining several degrees above the horizon. The way off the Tops was via Gordon Smith Pass. This was a very narrow gully; narrow enough to jump across at its upper end, which broke the cliff line about fifty metres from the northern corner of the wall. We dithered a bit here as there was no cairn and it looked too small to be a pass. However, Ted started to descend while the rest of us checked the surroundings for any other signs of a pass. There were none and Ted seemed to be making progress so we followed. The route followed the northern edge of the gully till it widened out enough to clamber into it. It was then simply a matter of dropping to the base of the cliffs. From here Kilpatrick Causeway was clearly visible across a slight depression and the path was again fairly well defined.
The Causeway was the rocky crest of the ridge that extends to Cloudmaker (3819 ft). From here there were magnificent views of Kanangra Deep. The sun was now highlighting the ridges and it was time for photographs (Ted's obsession). We climbed a small rise in the ridge and decided that the group would part, as Brian and I had a fair distance to cover and Ted and Mike just wanted to wander about. From here it was only about 1 mile to Crafts Wall and we were soon climbing out of the small col that separated it from the causeway. It was the first climb of the trip but was only about 100 ft.	"From here there were magnificent views of Kanangra Deep."
The path was distinct but divided at the wall. The main and shortest route followed the north west edge of the base of the wall. We noticed a small cave where the path divides; a welcome shelter in time of rain, but no good in the dry. The path undulated its way past the wall, but we didn't have time to climb to the top. The way up was from the other side. About half way round we passed another cave which looked as if it had had a good wet weather soak.
Once past Crafts Wall the path turned more northerly and followed a bearing of about 20 deg. We skirted a small rocky outcrop from which we took more photographs of the deep, which was now well sun-lit, then dropped into another small col before rounding the eastern flank of Mount Berry. We knew we had a steep drop from here to Gabes Gap, the low point on the ridge (2550), and as down is down, and down was all around, we nearly took the wrong ridge. A compass check showed us our error and we were soon romping down to the Deep Col. Here we stopped for a rest. We had come about two miles since we left the other two but it was all easy going. The hard work was about to begin.	Looking South into Kanangra Deep. The ridge in front is a spur off Mt. Berry.
Gabes Gap was a very pleasant grassy col. It was a textbook example of negative curvature. Someone had camped there by the look of the fireplace but they would have needed their own water. The track was now very steep and as that initial burst of fitness was beginning to wear off we were puffing and panting all the 700-ft to the top of Mount High and Mighty. The path was less well used from here on, but we stuck to the crest of the ridge which was clearly defined. From the top, Cloudmaker looked menacing but we had very little time for stops. As usual our schedule was a little tougher than our legs. We descended again into yet another col then skirted the side of Mount Stormbreaker. It was hard to make out the path and I am still not sure whether our way was the best, but we could see no other. We made our way back up to the crest of the ridge just past the summit. I suppose we had cut out about 100 ft of uphill. We had hoped to stay lower down and come in to the col before Cloudmaker, horizontally, but the scrub looked too thick so we made for the ridge.
Once down in the col we could only see the top of the first of a series of ascending knolls, affectionately called Rip, Rack, Roar and Rumble. The day was beginning to warm up as the sun was still shining with only a small amount of cloud. There were tremendous views as we struggled up that sparsely timbered, rocky spine.
The sweat was running and our lungs were gasping as we clawed our way over each of those torturous humps. The shoes we were wearing now began to show their limitations. That rock felt awfully hard through their not-too-stout soles, and the ankle support given by a good boot was noticeably lacking. Despite this, and a number of black snakes, we soon found ourselves having a well-deserved rest at the summit. Brian made an entry in the visitors book while I poked around and took a few photos. It was now midday and we had covered about seven miles that morning. The top was fairly level so the trees prevented any good views but it was comforting to know it was almost all downhill to the Cox River.	"Brian made an entry in the visitors book whilst I poked around and took a few photos."
We now had to make our way to Dex Creek, which would be our first water since we left the cave at Kanangra. As the ridge was broad we took a bearing of 65 deg and followed it. There was a sign of a path but it was hard to follow. We kept to the ridge for just over a mile then followed the last ridge north before Ti-Willa Canyon. This was a reasonably sharp ridge and there were aluminium markers on the trees. The wood was quite dense so we could not see much except trees, but we soon hit the creek. It was dry! At least it looked it, but a little searching found a small pool. It was sufficient to quench our thirsts and fill our bottles but a few more weeks without rain and even these puddles would be dry. We decided to have a bar of chocolate here but we could only stop for about ten minutes. It was now a question of reaching the Cox that night. We knew now we would not be able to climb the ridge the other side that day.
It was about 1pm when we set off again. We had hit the creek a bit too far up-stream so we followed it down to the grassy clearing that is often used as a camp site. It was a pleasant spot but we had no time to waste, so we took bearings and continued. We followed a bearing of 17 degrees which took us straight up a fairly steep 100 ft hill. The scrub was thick with no sign of a route or path, so we just had to bash our way through, keeping a close eye on our compasses. On the maps the top of the hill was marked "clear" so we had visions of making up time as we charged across open grasslands with extensive views. This was not to be. It was clear of trees but there was dense ground cover to a height of about 4-ft. I was soon regretting wearing shorts as the sharp twigs slowly skinned my shins. We stuck to the compass bearing for about a mile. This took us through a small copse and bank into the so-called "clear" country. A few more hundred yards of leg abrasion and we were in woodland again with its thinner understorey.
We now had to change bearing to 351 deg and drop about 150 ft onto the ridge to Mount Moorilla-Maloo. As the ridge became sharper, a path gradually appeared. It was well to know we were still on the right route. Crossing the plateau of Gangerang was the only tricky bit of navigation and luckily we made no mistakes that would have wasted time we didn't have.
After crossing a small hump in the ridge about 800 metres south of Moorilla-Maloo, we came upon another of those small cliffs that are not shown on the maps and confuse weary walkers. There was a good view from here of the path and the ridge leading off to Mount Strongleg. The cliffs of Moorilla-Maloo were glowing yellow in the mid-afternoon sunlight. We picked a way down the north west corner of the cliff where it was well broken and dropped into another col and then up again, skirting the south west corner of Moorilla-Maloo. As the path passed under the cliffs it became very clear. Then turned westward at a bearing of 283 deg. We checked our compasses just to make sure we were right, but it was hardly necessary as both path and ridge showed the way.	"There was a good view from here of the path and the ridge leading off to Mount Strongleg."
It was now simply a case of following the Moorilla Range out to Mount Strongleg. The general direction was 347 deg after rounding the corner in the ridge and there was a mean drop in height. However, this was not as easy on our now tired legs as expected. We had to climb over Mount Amarina, Kullieatha Peak and finally Mount Strongleg, which was a climb of over 200 feet. The ridge was rocky and hard on our scantily clad feet. Despite this it was no relief to reach the summit of Strongleg as we knew the 2100-ft descent to the Cox River would be punishing.
We dropped to the end of the ridge and paused, peering into the depths below; it looked steep. Not as steep as the Bulga down to the Kowmung, but still very steep. We took a bearing of 13 deg from the map and followed it. We kept to the crest of the ridge most of the time and in places there was a path, but it kept disappearing. The outsides of my knees were becoming painful with the strain of holding my body and pack-weight back. It was still down and down. In places we had to force out way through thick scrub; in others the ridge was fairly clear. After much cursing, slipping and thinking, "what on earth am I doing here", the river came in sight. It was still a long way below, but at least we were making progress and soon were climbing down the last few feet to a lush grassy clearing on the bank of Kanangra Creek, just upstream from its junction with the Cox River.
This was ideal as the water in the Cox is polluted. It was wonderful to be on flat ground, although we both had sore feet and the sides of my knees were hurting quite badly. We chose a spot for our camp and sat for a while, savouring the moment. It was about 4.45 pm and we were down in plenty of time, but neither of us felt like going any further. We had come about 14 miles and had been walking with hardly a break for eleven hours. We hadn't even stopped for lunch, only for that bar of chocolate at Dex Creek. We scouted about and collected a good supply of firewood, then had a refreshing wash in the creek. Soon the fire was going, the tent was up and dinner was on. We decided to try the lightweight freeze-dried food instead of the usual dehydrated stuff. It was not as good, but in our state anything was welcome. For a change we enjoyed the luxury of being able to see what we were eating as there were still traces of daylight about. However, this soon faded as we slowly sipped our tea and talked about the events of the day and what faced us tomorrow. We knew it would be another early start so I set the alarm for 4.30 am, and we settled down soon after eight for a well deserved and sound sleep.
When we struggled from our sleeping bags in the pre-dawn darkness the cloud cover that had built up the previous night had gone. The air was fresh but we were both stiff. My knees were really painful, and our feet were sore. Despite all this we soon had breakfast going and before we knew it, light was upon us and we were rushing once more to get packed up and away. There was just enough light to take a photo before we set off. It was 6.30 am. A late start.
We headed down Kanangra Creek and filled our bottles before we met the Cox River. We continued down the Cox looking for a suitable crossing place. The best seemed to be opposite Yellow Pup Point. We de-socked, but kept our shoes on for the extra grip. It was just over knee deep and there was a moderate flow, but there were no problems other than our scratched legs, which stung in the cold water. That river in flood would have been a different story. Once over we dried our feet and put our socks back on. The sun was rising now and the valley looked very impressive in that early morning light. It would have been nice to linger a while but we still had a climb ahead of us.
The path along the crest of the ridge went through 350 deg for the first mile. Although the sketch map had it marked as only a route, it turned out to be a reasonably well defined path. The gradient was not too steep for the first 3/4 mile and we had good views to the west down to our camping spot and the junction of the Cox River and Kanangra Creek 400-ft below. Soon the ridge became steeper and we were struggling against the pull of gravity and our packs. Rests became more frequent but only enough to regain normal breathing. Soon we were at the point where the ridge swings eastwards on a bearing of 210 deg. The change in direction was gradual and only noticeable through regular compass checks. Another 1/4 mile and the gradient eased a little but it was not to last. We had climbed 1300 ft above the river and still had 700 ft to go. The final steep pitch eased slightly as the path began to zigzag, but it was still hard work. At times we doubted whether it was the correct path to the top, so wide were its excursions, but eventually there was no more up-hill in front of us, only a cairn to mark the top of Mount Yellow Dog (2508') 2000 ft above the Cox River.
We had left the river at about 8 am and it was now about 9.30 am, so we decided we deserved a rest. Brian ate some chocolate and I drank some water and the ants ate us. We had only come about 2 1/2 miles so we had to keep moving. We set a bearing of 44 deg and continued along the Yellow Dog Range.
The going was easier now. The ridge was fairly sharp and rocky at first but as we gained height it became broader and the path became well trodden. There were a few small descents that were painful on my knees but it was not long before we were face to face with Mount Dingo, which towered 500 ft above us. Fortunately we were not going over it. There is a route up but we didn't have the time, so we stuck to the path which was now unmistakable as it skirted along the western edge of the range on a mean bearing of about 20 deg.
We made good progress along this section. The weather was fine, there were no major hills and we were in reasonable shape except for our feet, which were now getting rather sore, and my knees, which only gave trouble on steep downhill stretches. The path crossed several creek lines but they were all dry. While we were investigating one of these another party of three walkers passed us. We exchanged notes very briefly and they were off crashing through the bush. Our next stop was Mobbs Swamp. There was a pleasant grassy camping spot there but the creek was dry. This was not good news as we had worked up a thirst and were looking forward to a good guzzle. However, a little further along the main path there was a small creek line, this too was dry, but about 20 metres upstream there were several small pools of clean water. There was a bit of wildlife swimming about in it, but that didn't spoil our enjoyment.
It was now about 11.30 am and we planned to have lunch in Medlow Gap so we were soon off again. The path rounded the north west shoulder of Mount Warrigal and headed east. The going was still easy and it was not long before we met the Water Board road that took us into the Gap. We left the road the other side of the gap where the path starts the ascent of Mount Debert and settled down to lunch. It was now about 12.30 pm.
We had promised ourselves a good half-hour for lunch and enjoyed every minute of it. It was pleasant to sit back in the shade of the trees and nibble our nuts. We had done a good morning's walk but still had about eight miles to go.
We roused ourselves and started the 400-ft climb up Mount Debert. This is a small hump off the end of Narrow Neck plateau; almost a mile long but only a few hundred metres wide. It was very steep at first and in the warmth of the afternoon sun we were sweating freely. However we were soon on top of it and the views to the south were beginning to open out. The top half-mile was easy going through almost level woodland. I was not looking forward to the descent into Little Cedar Gap because of my knees, but when we arrived it didn't look too bad. It was down another rocky spine, not a slope that would be painful.	"However we were soon on top of it and the views to the south were beginning to open out."
Soon we were down and were surprised to see a road and an electricity pylon. The road was only access to the pylon but it was still a scar on the country. This rapidly faded from our thoughts as we slogged the 400-ft to the base of Narrow Neck cliff line. The views were not really impressive but we decided to wait till we were higher before taking photos. We rounded the left-hand side of the cliff to Taro's Ladder. This was a sheer corner in the cliff of about 80-ft, with iron spikes strategically placed to allow fools such as ourselves to climb up. We wasted no time, except that necessary to photograph each other climbing up. It was not difficult but a bit hair-raising, especially with packs on. At one point my pack caught on one of the spikes, but with a little manoeuvring I was free and standing on the top. At least we thought it was the top, but above us towered another 200 ft of cliffs. We decided to take our photographs here and it turned out to be the best spot; higher up there were too many trees. We could look south over our whole walk. In the distance the sheer walls of Kanangra were shining in the sun. Cloudmaker loomed in the mid-distance, with the Cox valley carving its way out in front. Then there were the Wild Dig mountains in the foreground and Mount Debert immediately below. To the east the blue waters of Lake Burragorang stood out against the surrounding green. It was splendid! White arrows on the rock indicated the way to the top. It was fairly easy over a few rocks to the next step in the cliff line, then round to the left again and up a steep, narrow gully. Climbing out of that cool, dark, dank gully into the open sunlit expanse of Clear Hill was an experience not easily forgotten and we sat for ten minutes admiring the view.
It was now about 3 pm and as we stiill had about six miles of road ahead of us, we had to start moving again. The road, although only a rough track was hard on our sore feet. We were cursing the day we decided to try sports shoes instead of boots. It felt as if the whole sole was one big blister. However, we had to carry on and the sun was shining and the views were magnificent, so we didn't feel too bad. It was a long drag up to Bushwalker's Hill, but on the way we found a source of fresh water. To the right of the track was a small clearing and out of a pipe in the bank flowed the clear refreshing liquid. We ditched what we had left from Mobbs Swamp and filled up with this newer supply. Soon we were on out way again.
It was a hard slog bashing along that road. Our feet were getting worse and my knees were becoming painful again, but we just kept putting one foot in front of the other as the sun slowly sunk in the sky. We crossed the Narrow Neck and stopped for a photo; there was a tremendous view of Mount Solitary. We pressed on up the steep slope the other side of the neck and over a few more rises and falls. It was gone 5 pm and the air was cooling rapidly as daylight began to fade. As we mounted the last hill before the descent to the car, which we had left at the top of the Golden Stairs, the sun set. That last bit of downhill was very painful and I needed a stick, which Brian wrested from the bank, to take some of the weight off my knees. It was down for 200-ft and we were both relieved to be at the car.
It was 6 pm and it had been a long, hard day. We had sore feet and were very weary, but this did not stop us discussing our next trip while having a meal in Katoomba.
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Kanangra to Katoomba - a two day walk.